Thursday, June 21, 2007

Ehren Tool


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
One of the most inspiring projects I came across during my time in California was that of Berkeley-based artist and former U.S. Marine Ehren Tool, who has made thousands of ceramic cups depicting images and scenes of war. I've copied below a riveting article on Tool from UC Berkeley News.

"From jarhead to bowl maker: Grad student Ehren Tool's art of war"
By Bonnie Azab Powell, NewsCenter | 27 October 2004
BERKELEY – "Anyone who begins a life in the arts doesn't do it for the notion of money," says Michelle Lopez, UC Berkeley sculpture professor, when asked about her student Ehren Tool's future prospects. "They do it because they don't have a choice: they have something they need to say. Ehren is one of those people."

Tool, a Gulf War veteran, does indeed have something to say: Although the U.S. may wage its wars far away, each one of its citizens is still complicit in their horrors.

Now a UC Berkeley graduate student in art practice, Tool is a former U.S. Marine who served in Desert Shield and Desert Storm in 1991. He wears his gold Marine Corps pin on a desert camouflage apron, and his hair as short as in his jarhead days. At 6' 2" and 320 pounds, he looks like a saner version of the Vincent D'Onofrio character from "Full Metal Jacket" — like someone you would not want to mess with.

Which would be too bad, because then you'd miss out on getting one of the cups he makes. They are clay, usually dull black with a shinier black glaze, and decorated with press molds of military medals, bombs, or babies, their bottom edges scalloped into sandbags. Tool has given away more than 4,000 of them since he graduated from the University of Southern California in 2000. Homeless people have Tool's cups, as do workers at Café Strada, where he likes to mainline espresso. He mails them, free of charge, to Marines related to people he meets. More than 800 of his cups went home with people from the Burning Man festival in 2003.

As with Tool's other work, his purpose is to make people think about war.

More than a decade has passed since he served in Desert Storm — as a lance corporal with the Military Police Company Headquarters Battalion First Marine Division, in the sand near the Kuwaiti oil fires — yet he can think of nothing else.

Tool struggles to explain how his work is not antiwar — he sees that term as disrespecting the troops, his brothers — but about raising general awareness of war. "It's this freaky thing. To me, it's like there's a siren going off in the background all the time," he says. "There are so many veterans and refugees who've seen war firsthand, but then they don't talk about it when they get back to the States. So what regular people know about war tends to come from toys and pornography and video games. I give away the cups because, it's like, 'Drink out of the cup with skulls on it. Drink out of the cup with bombs on it.' We don't have money for schools, we don't have money to make the corrections system a corrections system instead of a penal system, for any of that. But we do have money for million-dollar Tomahawk missiles and $13,000 cluster bombs. And every single one of us is part of that system whether we act like we know it or not."

Third-generation soldier

W.A. Ehren Tool was born in Charleston, South Carolina, but grew up in Los Angeles. His father served in the U.S. Army and fought in Vietnam, while his maternal grandfather, a Marine, was in World War II. Despite his military lineage, Tool was planning to be a policeman when he graduated from high school, seeing that as a natural segue from volunteer work he'd done with homeless youth shelters. "But you had to be 21 to be a cop, so when a Marine Corps recruiter called me senior year of high school, I went into the Marines instead," he explains.

It was 1989, the year the Berlin Wall came down. Tool thought it was the dawn of a new era: "I totally bought it. I thought we had won the Cold War, and America was going to stop having all these shady relations with [messed]-up countries." (Tool cusses casually and often, like a soldier; his quotations have been sanitized.)

In August 1990, months after Tool enlisted, Saddam Hussein and more than a million Iraqi soldiers invaded Kuwait. Tool was one of the 500,000 troops that the United States sent in 1991 to force him back.

"When the first bombs started dropping on their side and not ours, a cheer went up. We were so anxious and stressed out, that when the war finally kicked off we sort of relaxed," Tool recalls. "But then a little bit later, you start thinking, 'OK, so we're just hitting military targets and all,' but then it's like — 'Ooh…I'm a military target. And someone would be sad if I died.' There comes a point when you have to think about the other side."

While Tool saw a lot of action in Kuwait, he was lucky enough to be able to avoid seeing much horror up close. His father wrote him letters in which he talked about his service in Vietnam for the first time. "He said if you can avoid looking at it, avoid looking at it. Because once you do, it's there in your head forever," Tool says. "So at some point there were these guys in trenches who had been blown apart, and everybody wanted to go look. And I was like, 'OK, I'll just hang out right here and watch your [stuff] for you. Go right ahead.' Everybody thought I was a sissy. But at least I don't have that memory, of the smell or whatever."

After his seven months in the Gulf were over, Tool applied for and was accepted for a special assignment as a U.S. Embassy Guard in Paris and Rome — "real hardship posts," he laughs. He explains he was choosing to defend the diplomatic side of U.S. foreign policy, rather than the military aspect. When he got out of the Corps in 1994, he enrolled at Pasadena City College on the G.I. Bill intending to become an emergency medical technician. Then he snapped his ankle, and the drawing and painting classes he was taking started looking more attractive. "The plan after the Marine Corps was to find something I like to do," Tool shrugs. "The theory was, because I like to do it, I'll do it well. Because I do it well, someone will pay me." He chuckles. "That 'pay me' thing has been tricky."

That could be because Tool is loathe to charge money for his art work. He says he can't put a price on things that to him, symbolize the preciousness — and expendability — of soldiers' lives. He had a show in Los Angeles in 2001 that happened to open the month after the September 11 attacks, when suddenly his work about the 1991 Gulf War seemed fresh and relevant. "I sold one of the seven things I had for sale, but I gave away 750 cups total for that show," he admits. At the opening, someone knocked over the object that had sold and the gallery had to give the buyer her money back.

"My business strategy may be a little off," says Tool, before resorting to his favorite all-purpose word. "Whatever."

'Bombs away! Recommended for ages 10 and up'

Although he has made more of them than anything else, Tool's work should not be judged solely by those rough mugs. He also makes more polished, beautiful bowls guarded by toylike soldiers; trophies with figures missing arms and/or legs; Tarot card parodies with illustrations scanned from Marine Corps manuals; massive installations, such as "Cluster Bombs on the Black Rock Desert" for Burning Man and this year's "393"; and conceptual pieces such as the "Letter" project.

With "Cluster Bombs," he (and Burning Man helpers) scattered 808 ceramic cups on a 200-by-1,600-meter area replicating the area covered by an F-16's typical payload of four cluster bombs. Each CBU-87 bomb disperse 202 bomblets, effective against armored vehicles and troops, which Tool invoked using cups placed roughly 20 meters apart on the desert floor, so far it was hard to see from one to the next. To get a sense of scale, the U.S. Air Force dropped 10,035 of the CBU-87s during Desert Storm.

And now, to Tool's amazement, the CBU-87 is also a toy, available for purchase over the Internet. The miniature CBU-87 does not explode, but to Tool it is every bit as dangerous. "It's surreal," he says, staring at the package. "See the Operation Enduring Freedom sticker? 'Bombs away! Recommended for ages 10 and up.' I probably don't need to buy it to remember it, but if I don't own it, I'll think I made it up in a couple of years."

For his piece "393," which commemorates the number of U.S. combat deaths the first year of the Iraq war, Tool made and decorated 393 ceramic cups by hand. "Each of the 393 U.S. dead were raised by someone. Someone whipped their ass and made sure they got to school," he explains. "Then they went to Iraq and were killed." After firing and glazing the cups, Tool shot each of them with a pellet gun and videotaped it shattering. Each set of fragments was displayed on an individual base in front of a screen playing the 50-minute video of their destruction. The work has been shown at UC Berkeley's Worth Ryder Gallery and at California State University, Long Beach.

Why did he shoot the cups? "Each of the 393 cups could have remained unbroken for thousands of years," he explains. "Each of the 393 dead could have gone on to affect changes that could have changed the world." He adds that if a similar video were made, with five seconds honoring each Vietnamese killed in what that country calls "the American War," it would take more than three months to watch.

For the "Letter" project, which he began in 1999, Tool has mailed letters and cups to more than 50 government officials and prominent private citizens around the world. For his shows, he'll display a letter or two, a photograph of the cup he sent, and the response (if any). In January 2001, before the Iraq war began, he wrote to each member of the United Nations Security Council plus the Iraqi ambassador to the U.N. He introduced himself as a former Marine and a vet, and wrote, "I would like you each to have a cup I made, and to thank you for your efforts to avoid another war in Iraq. I am not very optimistic that your efforts will avoid a war but I wanted to thank you for trying."

He concluded the letter with, "Once a person has witnessed a war, they are forever changed."

China refused his package, but the representatives from Chile, the United States, and the United Kingdom replied. The U.K. ambassador to the United Nations, Sir Jeremy Greenstock, wrote that Tool's cup would stay on his desk, and the Secretary of the Navy said that he would display the bowl in a prominent place next to his sign-in sheet at the Pentagon. This means a lot to Tool. "When I was in the Marines, you had to go through the chain of command to talk to people," he says. "Now I'm a civilian, so I can write to the president, to the secretary of defense if I want. They don't have to respond, but I can tell them how I feel."

"Tick-tock, tick-tock"

Tool will be graduating in May with his Master of Fine Arts. He isn't sure how he'll support his family — he and his wife just had their first child, a son, in October — since he finds the idea of profiting from his kind of work repugnant. He would like to teach ceramics, but doesn't have high hopes for getting such a position, given how poorly the Introduction to Visual Thinking class he's teaching this semester has gone. Ten out of the 26 students registered for the class dropped it in the first few weeks, he chuckles ruefully. That could have something to do with his existential drill-sergeant style. He says he told them, the only thing he'd guarantee is that at the end of each class, "You will be three hours closer to the moment you will die. It's like, tick-tock, tick-tock, [expletive]…If you come in here and you don't max out your time, I will punish you."

While Tool acknowledges that at some point, he will have to find a new artistic obsession — that "eventually people will ask me why the hell I'm doing this when I will have been out of the Marines for 20 years" — he doesn't see that day coming anytime soon. The Iraq war is simply a continuation of the Gulf War, he says, pointing out that the United States has been bombing the country continuously (in the no-fly zone) since 1991, and there will be more wars that could be avoided.

Cup by cup, letter by letter, Tool is trying to do his part to stop the carnage. He is not optimistic. Asked about a print of Picasso's "Guernica" (1937), the most famous antiwar artistic statement in history, hanging high on the wall of his studio, he says he put it there "to keep [stuff] in perspective. That's before Auschwitz, before Nagasaki, Guadalcanal and all these other horrible things. So if Picasso couldn't stop war with that brilliant piece of work, I don't have a chance."

See more images of Tool's work here: www.berkeley.edu/news/media/releases/2004/10/27_tool.shtml.
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Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Adriane Bovone


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
On the Day of Demonstrations, I had the pleasure of reconnecting with a dear old friend from art school Adriane Bovone, who brought some beautiful quilts she had made. One utilized fabric overages from a neighborhood upholsterer. The other was comprised of muslins used by her Western-clinical-herbalist partner to strain finished tincture out of infused medicinal plants. (200 different plants in his pharmacy = 200 different natural plant dyes!). I loved the idea of this medicinal healing quilt, which was made in the Log Cabin quilt pattern.
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Bridget Barnhart


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Bridget Barnhart (right) demonstrated how to make cheese. A recent graduate of California College of Art, her recent projects include working with home cheese makers and fancy chicken breeders. As stated on her website at www.bridgetbarnhart.com, "The project was a response to a current movement in slow food and localism in agriculture which many art groups have been working to promote."
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Paul Barron


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
A frequent participant in international anarchist art fairs, Paul Barron brought a selection of prints and a large woodblock he is currently working on.

Find out more about Paul at www.paulbarron.org.


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Karie Reinertson


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Karie Reinertson demonstrated how to self-style clothing with personalized appliques and embroidery. Curator Liz Thomas got her jacket embellished with a forest of calico trees.
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Jeremy Thompson


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Jeremy Thompson brought a tabletop letterpress to demonstrate printing with a political message. Using antique type and red and blue ink, he made a series of prints and plackards with slogans about war and global warming.
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Travis Meinolf


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
San Francisco-based artist Travis Meinolf brought his own floor loom all the way to Berkeley for the Day of Demonstrations in order to show us a selection of beautiful woven blankets and overshot woven textiles using early American patterns in unconventional colors.
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Rachel Beth Egenhoefer


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Rachel Beth Egenfoefer brought an array of projects considering the relationship between the body and technology, including a knitted laptop cozy with connected wrist mits.

In a 2005 artist statement, Rachel states:
"Textiles share obvious historical connections to technology, its object oriented process serving as the blueprint for the immaterial processing of computing. They also share a constructional make-up that interests me more. Knitting together codes of base-two patterns- knits and purls, zeros and ones. Cloth provides the comfort and security of an object. It is tangible code we can see and understand, while giving us the same comfort as our own clothing accessorizing out bodies.

Tying together the processes and objects of my work is the circular looped motion that constructs our actions, desires, and movements. The cycles of analog to digital information pulsating up and down a wave of electricity. The obvious cycles of the body’s hunger and fulfillment intertwined with cycles of digestion. The motion of two hands knitting a string of yarn into cloth. The motion of our bodies interacting with machines, tensing and relaxing as we negotiate in the space between. Digital information plots points for electricity to flow through. Textile patterns plot the construction of cloth. While plotting points, like the grid, order is pure relationship, a relationship of a spinning Ferris wheel."

Check out more of her work at www.rachelbeth.net.
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Diane Winters Demonstrates


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Diane Winters came to the Day of Demonstrations to show visitors how to make Arts and Crafts Movement-inspired ceramic tiles using her own custom-made press molds.
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Lacey Jane Roberts


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Lacey Jane Roberts recently graduated from California College of Art with an MFA in Textiles and an MA in Visual Criticism. On the heels of their decision to drop the "Craft" from their name, Lacey created a guerilla installation on the façade of the building replacing her own knitted version of the word. Her recent ambitious and strikingly beautiful piece "We couldn’t get in. We couldn’t get out." consisted of a huge hot pink, knitted barbed wire fence. At the Day of Demonstrations, Lacey brought her Cool Corder Knitting Crank & Barbie Knit Magic machines from the 1970's. Check out her website at www.laceyjaneroberts.com.
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Michele Pred


demo
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Michele Pred participated in the Day of Demos by showing visitors how to knit discarded cell phone chargers into baskets. A Berkeley-based artist, Pred creates sculptures out objects that would otherwise end of in a landfill, as well as post-9/11 confiscated items from airport security checkpoints: scissors, pocketknives, and clippers, for example. Pred says of her raw materials, "the diverse array of assembled 'dangerous' items may be regarded as the cultural residue of a particular moment in history...each small tool, like each of us, bears some weight of a changed world." There is a wonderful webpage on her work at: www.nancyhoffmangallery.com/pred/2004.html.
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Tuesday, June 19, 2007

New Objects


New Objects
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Here are some objects recently added to the Notion Nanny traveling exhibition: a letterpress tag featuring the Notion Nanny peddler's cry made with Macy Chadwick, a stained galss surrender flag made with Ted Ellison, a battleship ceramic tile made with Diane Winters, a global warming plackard made by Jeremy Thompson, and a ceramic mug with bullet wound by Ehren Tool. In the background are letterpress trade cards made by Amelia Grohman and a knitted linen doily made by Sue Batley.
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Demorama


Demorama
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
It was a beautiful sunny day on May 20th when we held the Notion Nanny Day of Demonstrations on the terrace of the Berkeley Art Museum. Some of the "traditional" crafts represented include knitting, quilting, overshot weaving and applique, ceramic tile making and wheel-thrown pottery, stained glass, woodcut relief printing, letterpress, cheese and marmalade making, and the Victorian art of skeleton leaves. I loved the spirit of this event. It was relaxed yet engaged, with lots of interesting dialogue.
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Demonstrate!


Day of Demonstrations
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Notion Nanny Day of Demonstrations
May 20, 11 am to 3 pm

This open forum is related to Allison Smith's Notion Nanny exhibition, part of the Berkeley Art Museum's MATRIX series of exhibitions. Originally enacted in Britain, Notion Nanny is a collaborative social project in which Allison Smith takes on the role of an itinerant apprentice traveling through rural and urban areas in search of traditional skills and revolutionary dialogue. The genesis of the project came from Smith's research into the peddler dolls, or "notion nannies," popularly displayed in British and American households during the Victorian era. Traditionally dressed in a red cloak and holding a basket overflowing with miniature crafts, these notion nannies commemorated the disappearing custom of itinerant traders traveling the countryside, peddling their wares. The exhibition will include a re-creation of a life-size peddler doll in the artist's own image, whose basket serves as a repository for the wares made by Smith in her collaboration with local artisans and craftspeople during her travels, and offers up larger metaphors and questions assumed notions about art and craft in contemporary life.
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Monday, June 18, 2007

Theodore Ellison


Theodore Ellison
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Ted Ellison handcrafts leaded glass into period-inspired architectural windows and lighting, influenced by the Arts & Crafts tradition. He works with homeowners, architects and designers to create one-of-a-kind original designs with great attention to detail. As stated on his website at www.theodoreellison.com, "Through good design and innovative fabrication, Theodore Ellison Designs proudly offers a refreshing approach to this 800 year old art." Ted is a member of Artistic License, a San Francisco guild of architects, designers and craftspeople dedicated to preserving the quality and integrity of traditional building crafts.

Interestingly, he is also a self-described "faux magician" named Stallion. You must check out his website, www.stallionmagic.com, which is completely over the top. Considering all of the theories and literary references I've run across characterizing peddler women as gypsy fortune tellers and potion-toting witches, I love the idea of this particular craftsman's alter-ego.
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Surrender Flag


Surrender Flag
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
The last step was to rub some acid into the metal, creating a patina that turned all of the leading to a warm dark black and unified the edges with the tassled rope.
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Finishing Touches


Ted Affixing the Rope
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Ted and I decided the surrender flag needed some sort of flourish. Ted had a great idea for how to make a twisted copper rope using the chuck of a drill to hold three strands of wire, clamping them in a vice grip, and letting the drill go. After some troubleshooting, Ted machined a little cap for a tassel, and we soldered the rope to the flag from the back.
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Soldering Lessons


Soldered Together
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Afterwards, I brushed the edges with flux and Ted taught me how to solder the pieces together. I remember watching my dad solder things in his workshop in the basement, and had always want to learn how to do it. It's really fun to watch the liquid metal cling and flow across the edges as it binds the glass together.
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Metal Outlines


Preparing the Edges
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
After cutting the pieces using a band saw rigged up with a diamond blade and flowing water, I covered and trimmed the edges with copper foil tape and leading.
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Ripple Effects


Rippled Glass
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
On the morning I was scheduled to go over to Ted's studio to make something, I woke up in a funk. I decided to make a stained glass flag signalling my desire to surrender. Ted had the perfect glass for the job: a rippled translucent white. I chose a faceted jewel-like element for the finial, which was salvaged from some antique glass windows he had stored in his studio.
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Glass Palette


Glass Palette
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
When brainstorming for ideas of what to make in stained glass, Ted let me look through lots of bins of odd bits and pieces of glass. I particularly liked some scraps of glass that he had etched with a Bauhaus design.

We looked through lots of books in Ted's library, including a rare set of German catalogs on the history of stained glass. Some of the memorable pieces included images of tradespeople, emblematic compositions of tools and still lifes, wreaths and garlands, odd landscapes, and some beautiful glass abstractions by Joseph Albers.
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Stained Glass


Stained Glass
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Ted Ellison buys his glass directly from manufacturers and local distributors that import hundreds of varieties of glass from all over the country and Europe. He is constantly looking for unusual and unique glass to create his own original palette. In his studio there are literally thousands of piece of glass to choose from.

This is one of twenty-five individual window panes he is working on as part of a large commission.
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The Conversation


Conversations
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Macy Chadwick's company is called In Cahoots Press, because she likes to collaborate. In her artist book entitled The Conversation, she "tackles the challenges of verbal communication through layers of colorful shapes that reach in from the edges of the pages like two people leaning towards each other in intimate dialogue. Lines of poetry describe a conversation as a facade of abstract forms and patterns where words can be looked at but are inevitably misunderstood."

This limited edition artist book is available at www.califiabooks.com.
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Macy Chadwick


Macy Chadwick
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Macy Chadwick earned her MFA in Book Arts/Printmaking from University of the Arts in Philadelphia, and has taught at the Academy of Art University, Colorado College, Oregon College of Art and Craft, the New York Center for Book Arts, and in her own studio. She worked as studio assistant to Julie Chen at Flying Fish Press in Berkeley for three years. Publishing as In Cahoots Press, Macy produces limited edition books & prints, and explores mixed media sculptures involving text. Her artist's books have been displayed nationally and are in collections in the U.S. and abroad.
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Pulling a Proof


Pulling a Proof
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is me, excitedly pulling a proof. It took lots of tries to make the type land on the paper where we wanted it to.
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Typesetter at Work


Typesetter at Work
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is Macy, meticulously setting the type for the Notion Nanny peddler's cry.
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The Letterpress


The Letterpress
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Letterpress publishing has recently undergone a revival in the USA, Canada and the UK, under the general banner of the 'Small Press Movement'. Discarded by commercial print shops, affordable letterpress printing presses (in particular, Vandercook cylinder proof presses and Chandler & Price platen presses) became available to artisans throughout the country. The movement has been helped by the emergence of a number of organizations that teach letterpress such as New York's Center for Book Arts and Studio on the Square, the San Francisco Center for the Book, Bookworks, Black Rock Press and the Minnesota Center for Book Arts.

This is Macy's Vandercook letterpress. Apparently they stopped making these in the 1950s.
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Mixing the Ink


Mixing the Ink
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
After the type was set, I mixed the rubber-based ink to create a dark red-orange.
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Type A


Type
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Another maker I worked with in California was a wonderful letterpress printer named Macy Chadwick. She has been doing letterpress printing for over a decade and once inherited an enormous collection ot type from a retired collector named Mr. Livingstone. Upon his death, the type was nearly sold for eleven cents a pound as scrap metal. Thankfully, Macy got a call and rescued the historic collection.

We decided to reproduce the Notion Nanny peddler's cry as an oversize tag to hang on the basket. First we looked through thousands of tiny motifs to find this selection of tools and objects. Setting the type takes a lot of precision, as each piece of type must be fit, puzzle-like, into a block, filling in open space with tiny slivers of metal.
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Train Tracks


Train Tracks
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is a set of train tracks leading mysteriously to the door of Oakland letterpress printer Macy Chadwick's studio. Apparently the building was once a "rag factory" that collected and used rags in the making of bombs and ammunition.
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The Notions Bag


The Notions Bag
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is the notions bag I made for the Notion Nanny basket. The design is based on a "collar" bag in Dianne Ayres's collection of Arts and Crafts textiles, presumably meant to hold collars and cuffs in times when they were detachable. The embroidery is based on an original tea towel, perhaps symbolizing regeneration, according to Dianne. We chose the pattern because it was quintessentially Arts and Crafts, and at the same time it had a colonial feel. I also liked the use of primary colors. In order to find the little metal rings, I made a trip to the shop at Berkeley's Lacis Museum of Lace and Textiles, where I was blown away by the amazing selection of textile-related materials and tools. You can find out more at www.lacis.com and lacismuseum.org.
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Dianne's Project


Dianne's Quilt
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
One day at Dianne's studio I made the happy discovery of a linen scrap bin under one of the large work tables. In the true spirit of recycling and making-do that has characterized women's home industry for centuries, and recalling the cultural phenomenon of war-time scrap drives, Dianne collects these scraps and donates them to local organizations including charities and hand papermaking workshops.

This is an ongoing quilt she is making with some of the scraps leftover from other projects.
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Smile


Smile
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Diane designed and made this ingenious scrolling calendar for her studio, which made me smile.
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Hmong Embroidery


Hmong Embroidery
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
An interesting side note is that many of Dianne Ayres's embroiderers are from Laos, and she originally found them through a local program that was set up to to serve Laotian refugees by fostering the use of traditional skills such as embroidery to tell their stories, build community, and earn some income.

There is a fascinating tradition of Hmong embroidery that depicts the perilous journey of Laotian refugees to America. This pictorial embroidery was made by Mee Van (age 79), who came from Laos to the U.S. in 1983. She made the embroidery in 1988 to tell the story of her family and friends' escape from their village of Nasou.

The story begins at the top, where at the left Communist government troops are fighting Vietnamese soldiers. At the upper and middle right of the piece is a fascinating range of village activities, both work and play. Then we see people starting their long trek south and westward, setting up temporary camps along the way. They finally reach the Mekong River; some float across on inner tubes. They are met by Thai Immigration officials, where they are interrogated and furnished with papers for their trip to the U.S. There's a refugee camp at the bottom, and finally, at the lower left, they head for buses and a plane that will take them overseas.

source: marlamallett.com
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Dianne Ayres


Dianne Ayres
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is Dianne Ayres in her workshop studio in Oakland, where she produces contemporary renditions of Arts & Crafts textiles such as pillows, bedspreads, and table runners. She works with collectors and enthusiasts wishing to decorate in the style as well as others who appreciate the designs and the art of handcrafts.

Dianne and her embroiders use the same techniques used at the turn-of-the-century: hand embroidery, applique, hand stencilling and printing. You can see more of her work at www.textilestudio.com. Her work is also featured at The Craftsmand Home in Berkeley, which sells "honest furniture for home and heart" and can be found at www.craftsmanhome.com.
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Color Choices


Color Choices
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
These are the colors we selected for the embroidered pattern on the notions bag. When I had gotten this far, Dianne decided she'd like to make a notions bag, too. So we repeated the whole process and she showed me how to do the satin and couching stitches.
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The Pattern


The Pattern
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Next, the pattern was drawn with washable marker.
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Traces


Traces
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
The first step in transfering the design to the fabric was to trace the original tea towel and work out how the repeats would come together around the perimeter of the pouch.
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Hem Stitch


Hem Stitch
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
At her workshop, Dianne has an old Singer sewing machine that makes a very pretty hem stitch. It belonged to Dianne's great-grandmother, and has been passed down through generations of stitchers in her family. For every stitch, the machine makes three passes over the same hole. This is how we decided to finish the edges of the "notions" bag we were going to make.
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A Favorite Tea Towel


A Favorite Tea Towel
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This embroidered tea towel is one of Dianne's favorite items in her collection of textiles. However, she has never used it as the inspiration for a contemporary piece in her line of reproduction textiles. After years of careful examination of the design motifs within Arts and Crafts period textiles, she and her husband Tim came up with an interesting interpretation for the embroidered pattern.

Reading it like a symbolic narrative, the pattern seems to begin with a small red diamond shape, situated like a seed within two swirling "brushstrokes" suggesting a circular movement like that of a recycling symbol, or a swastika. Small green and blue leaves sprout outward on either side. Three lines "rain" downward with more red seeds at their tips, suggesting the proliferation and sewing of new seeds into the earth below. Horizontal lines radiate outward on either side to taller vines adorned with multi-colored leaves that create a heart-shaped frame around another line moving upward with a seed, or bud, at its peak. The theme of regeneration seems to resonate with the notion of a contemporary re-visiting of the Arts and Crafts Movement's instrumentalizaton of the natural world, considering our frought relationship with nature and the earth's resources today. I also like the connection this makes to a recycling of ideas and histories.
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Swastika Pouch


Swastika Pouch
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This unassuming pouch is one of many in Dianne Ayres's collection of Arts and Crafts Movement period textiles. Its startling swastika design was clearly embellished prior to WW2, when the symbol was commonly used to signify good luck. An ancient symbol dating back thousands of years to Zoroastrian Persia, the swastika represented the revolving sun, fire, infinity, and continuing recreation. The Western use of the swastika was subverted in the early 20th century after it was adopted as the emblem of the Nazi Party in their attempt to link the pre-history of European peoples to the ancient "Aryans," also called the Indo-Iranians.
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A Collection of Pouches


A Collection of Pouches
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Among Dianne Ayres's extensive collection of Arts and Crafts period textiles is a wonderful group of linen pouches in a variety of shapes and sizes. Some have ribbon drawstrings, others are clasped at the top like change purses. All have the charismatic embroidery typical of the style, in bright colors that have kept their luster over the years.
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Birds of Paradise, or Peace


Arts & Crafts Embroidery
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This form of embroidery is typical of American Arts and Crafts Movement period textiles, using pearlized cotton (or silk) thread in satin stitch or couching on linen. Although the socialist underpinnings of the English Arts and Crafts Movement seem to have faded in its transition to America, the utopian ideals of nature and handcrafts in harmony as an antidote to the industrial revolution remain. I'd like to think of these birds as doves, but they are probably meant to be swallows.
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Embroidery Palette


Embroidery Palette
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Dianne decided to create her own thread keeper, with the palette of colors she developed for her textile line. A personalized organizational tool if ever there was one, it turned out to be a lot more work to make than she had thought, but seems well worth the effort.
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Thread Keeper


Thread Keeper
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Dianne showed me this curious linen thread keeper she found, probably from the 19th or early 20th century. It had been meticulously stitched with narrow channels for holding different colors of thread while preventing tangles and providing easy access to the colors needed.
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Linen Samples


Linen Samples
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Prior to meeting Dianne, I received a copy of her catalog in the mail. It included a beautiful selection of linen samples. Being a linen lover, it was then that I knew we were kindred spirits. The social history of linen is a fascinating tale. Over 5000 years ago the Egyptians named it "woven moonlight", due to its singular beauty. A little less poetic, but all the more apt, is the Latin appellation: "linum usitatissimum" meaning the extremely useful flax plant.
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Samples & Kits


Samples
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
These are some of the samples used by Dianne Ayres and her employees when making their textile works. Featuring stylized motifs such as dragonflies, ginkgo leaves, roses, tulips, and pinecones, each design is hand stenciled and hand embroidered on Belgian linen. In keeping with the Arts and Crafts Movement ideal that everyone should have access to beautiful things for the home, Dianne has created a series of kits so that anyone who has facility with a needle and thread can re-create her historical recreations.
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Read This Book!


Read This Book
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is Diane Ayres's seminal book on American Arts and Crafts textiles. Dianne and her husband Timothy Hansen began identifying and collecting these rare textiles in the early 1980s, before they were broadly appreciated. Now experts in the field, they now write and lecture widely on Arts and Crafts textiles and design, and have hundreds of examples in their archives which provide the inspiration for Dianne's designs.
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Waving the Banner for Arts & Crafts


Banner
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
While in Berkeley I was lucky to have been able to work with Arts and Crafts Movement period textile artist Dianne Ayres. This is a banner that graces the foyer of her workship studio, utilizing stenciling and emboidery on linen.

Dianne took me on an amazing tour of private homes decorated in the American Arts and Crafts style. She states on her website, "An Arts & Crafts style home is distinguished as much by its friendly comfortable atmosphere as it is by its architecture, furniture and other objects. Gustav Stickley likened the desired effect to the experience of nature: "...plan and arrange the room that the sense of space and freedom is always felt, and so to preserve the relation between the natural background of the walls and floor and the more prominent furnishings in the room that each part is given its own value and falls into its own place as naturally and inevitably as the trees, hills, valleys and brooks combine in the harmonious relationship that makes a beautiful landscape."
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Diane Winters


Diane Winters
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Diane Winters of Winters Tileworks designs makes handcrafted, molded ceramic tiles. With special emphasis on inspiration from the Arts & Crafts Movement, Diane works in a variety of stylistic traditions, with a broad color palette of satin-matte glazes. These artisan-made tiles offer a richness and subtlety that cannot be matched by commercial tile. In addition to an existing range of designs, Diane can also work directly with clients to create a custom installation. Her commission work includes decorative accent and field tiles for use on fireplaces, doorway surrounds, stair risers, kitchens, baths, and as garden embellishments.

Examples of the creations of Winters Tileworks have been featured in publications including Old House Interiors, Style 1900, American Bungalow Style, and also in books about handmade tile. Other prominent examples include installations at Disney's Grand Californian Hotel in Anaheim. Diane is a member of Artistic License, a group of dedicated professional artisans, whose work continues time-honored traditions of crafts for the built environment. The work of Artistic License members promotes the highest standards for period architecture, interiors, and the decorative arts; encompassing restoration, renovation, and newly-interpreted period revival design.

The group acts as a forum for the exchange of information, experiences and skills among its members, as well as a public resource to educate and promote the highest standards for period architecture, interiors, and the decorative arts.
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Activism as a Trade

While working with Diane Winters one day, she made a comment that has stuck in my head. It was that during the 1960s, a lot of activists and political organizers decided to learn various trades, like tile setting, because it allowed them to be mobile.

Very in keeping with l'esprit de Notion Nanny, I must say.

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Second Firing


Second Firing
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is the curator Liz Thomas placing the glazed tile down into the kiln for its second firing. Depending on how Diane wants the glazes to react, tiles are stacked on shelves in various areas of the kiln that generate the appropriate levels of heat necessary.
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First Firing


First Firing
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is the tile after the first firing as it awaits glazing. The underside is painted with liquid wax to resist the glaze.
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Sunday, June 17, 2007

Casting the Tile


Casting the Tile
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
After making sure that the tile had no undercuts, we set it down into a plastic container, Diane's ingenious process for making smooth, uniform molds. Next we mixed the plaster and poured it in. The wetness of the clay created a natural release.
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What a Relief


Modeling the Clay
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
The next step was to model the tile in shallow relief using clay modeling tools, keeping in mind that the glaze would both fill and highlight the details later.
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War Ship


War Ship
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
Inspired by the idea of the Viking ship, I decided to create a tile with an image of a contemporary war ship. This is the drawing I made of a U.S. Navy ship encrusted with sattelite dishes and radio antennae, firing a missile out at sea. After I made the drawing, I transferred it onto a slab of wet clay.
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Viking Ship


Viking Ship
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
This is one of Diane Winters's tile designs. The theme of viking ships was prevalent among many of the original Arts and Crafts Movement tile makers. I find this idea intriguing, since most of the motifs from this era depict floral imagery and plantlife. Diane said that the viking ship was emblematic of makers' desires for escape, which manifested in exotic fantasies of the past and of far off places.
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Magnolia


Magnolia
Originally uploaded by notionnanny
During my time in Berkeley, I had the pleasure of working with Diane Winters, who makes ceramic tiles in the American Arts and Crafts Movement style.

I bought a few of these lovely magnolia tiles for some of the ladies in my Southern family.
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